Tanning racoon degreasing-Aluminum Sulfate

After the cape or hide has been skinned from the carcass remove as much meat and fat as possible from the hide. Split the lips, turn the ears, and take the cartilage out of the septum of the nose. The longer the hide remains in its raw state the more likely the hair is to slip. Lay the hide hair side down; flesh side up on a flat working surface. Salt the hide with a fine ground non-iodized salt; thoroughly rub the salt into the flesh side.

Tanning racoon degreasing

Tanning racoon degreasing

Tanning racoon degreasing

Tanning racoon degreasing

Hang and drain for 30 minutes. But I have thinned a few beavers to when I'm Tanning racoon degreasing to rzcoon a few hair Tanning racoon degreasing, and those big beavers still turned out stiff as a board. Show Forum Posts. These are very hard to work with without the proper equipment. Hide got folded over on itself in the pickle or neutralizing bath. A fleshing knife pushes off any connective tissue, meat, fat and grease from degreaskng skin-side of the pelt. I degrease my coons for days, even change the pickle with fresh degreaser after it gets loaded with fat.

Bikini bandits denmark. Step 2: A Race Against Time

I would think that unleaded or white gas would work better, but I sure don't suggest you use them. If you want to use Aluminum Sulphate - here is the way I would advise you to do it. If after Tanning racoon degreasing 12 hours, the skin still appears excessively wet, repeat the salting procedure again. If it's not 2. The skins still came out greasy after I used this method. From machinery to chemicals to be used. With the little amount that I do it would last me a good while. Leave your skins in this Pickling type solution for days. Turn the lips, eyes, ears, and nostrils. A milk jug, or something similar, filled with water and placed on the Tanning racoon degreasing will remedy this. Follow steps below for heavier hides. Or Bear Bulimia during pregnancy degreaser used in a warm salt water bath.

There are a number of ways to tan a pelt.

  • Discussion in ' Tanning ' started by sideburns24 , Jul 9,
  • I have gotten a lot of questions on "how can I tan my own skins".
  • Typical Scenario for Hide Tanning:.

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For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter huntswithhounds Start date Jan 20, I'm Smoke and brain tanning a raccoon hide but I can't seem to get all the grease out of the hide.

I even wiped it down with acetone. Any tips? I've used Dawn dish soap to degrease skulls and birds before and have not had any problems with it. That would be my suggestion. Before you tan you have to flesh all the fat and red meat off. Then salt to dry.

You may have to re-salt. If you are doing it just to have fun, enjoy. But if you want it to come out as soft and supple as a tannery will get it, it won't. I use TSP for skulls. You don't want to do that on a hide, though. Use a product like Kemal 4. Add lacquer thinner or mineral spirits to the water as directed when using the Kemal. You must log in or register to reply here. Share: Facebook Twitter Email Link.

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Do your own research or read the instructions from a commercial package. If you want a fur, then it is toast. Lay the hide out flat, flesh side up. If you cannot do that brain tanning may be the best for you. I usually roll mine into burlap so the freezer can help dry it by way of evaporation. By this time, the hide should remain soft and pliable.

Tanning racoon degreasing

Tanning racoon degreasing. Step 2: Fleshing the Pelt

Before it gets to hard fold it up, remember you will need to get this into a sink, tub or bucket of water. Once it is rock hard it is good for a long time, sort of salt cured.

This method of drying will help "set" the hair so slippage should not happen. Soak skin until the hide returns to a soft, pliable state.

Hang skin up to drain, once most water has stopped dripping towel dry until the skin is only slightly damp. I have a washing machine in my shop and I usually will just place the skin in there and put it on the spin cycle, works great and fast. Once it is clean and thoroughly rinsed return it to the pickle for another 24 hours. Mix a neutralizing solution to off set the acid. For every one gallon of water 1 oz of backing soda.

Place skin in and soak for 20 minutes. Once done thoroughly rinse, let skin drain for 1 hour. Than remove skin and let drain for 20 minutes. Heat up tanning oil so it is warm a microwave works good for this. But on rubber gloves and rub the oil into the skin or use a paint brush, a little oil goes a long way but make sure you use enough so it will penetrate the skin. Roll the skin up, skin side to skin side and place in a plastic bag that is air tight and place in the refrigerator over night.

Am I not using enough Super Solvent? I know I am doing a fairly good job of fleshing because all that is left the skin and hair.

But, am I doing some other part of the tanning process incorrectly? Do I need to switch tanning methods? I think I remember reading somewhere that pickling helps break down the grease and oils in the skin.

Any help anyone can give me would be very greatly appreciated! Jul 9, 2. Are you not salting or pickling? Why would you use an oil product to degrease? Jul 9, 3. I have done no salting or pickling. The kerosene and diesel are based on the idea oils can break down other oils. If you have ever bought a military surplus firearm that has been coated in cosmoline you know that diesel will break down this oily greasy substance and remove it even from a wooden stock. Jul 9, 4. Ok with the alum sulfate you need to get the Ph to a 2 or 2.

Place the cape in the solution for three days take out shave what needs to be shaved and then do the degreasing. Make sure you agitate the hide. Then take out drain and place back in the pickle for a day. From there you raise the Ph to 4. Now you drain, oil and fold over night. Other wise I would choose many other different types of tan agents which are a bit more expensive but a better tan than lasts would be EZ It's not only a tan for us but used in the garment industry and well worth your time to look into this.

Jul 9, 5. Thanks for your input Frank. However I'm a little confused with your instructions. Are you saying that I need to pickle, then use the tanning solution for three days, shave, degrease, go back in the pickle, and finally raise the pH?

Concerning the EZ Its not nearly as expensive as I expected! With the little amount that I do it would last me a good while. Is it completely comprehensive, containing all the chemicals that are needed? More importantly, does it come with instructions? I really like to have a fairly good idea of what I am doing before I begin something like this.

Jul 9, 6. I understand the concept sideburns but think about it. Isn't diesel or kerosene already heavy with oil? I would think that unleaded or white gas would work better, but I sure don't suggest you use them. I suggest a good tannery de-greaser. Do a search on tanning here and read up, it will help. Jul 10, 7. Kerosene is a very good degreaser, use during the pickling stage in a separate bath with warm water and salt, agitate during the degreasing very well and often for an hour drain then back in the pickle!

I use kerosene on seals and bears and those seals are the worst skins I bet on earth for containing very large amounts of grease! Jul 10, 8. Thanks muscle! Do you think I could go back and start again with these greasy skins? The fur is still in very good condition. Its not a complete loss if i can't because now I know what to do the next time.

You all have been very helpful! Jul 10, 9. Jul 11, Yes sideburns24 you can start over again if you choose, even use a more permanently fixed tanning agent if you want. White gas in a closed container set in the sunlight. Don't let it get too hot. Agitate frequently. Or Bear Essentials degreaser used in a warm salt water bath. Both will work fairly well for the animals you listed. Jul 13,

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There are a number of ways to tan a pelt. There are plenty of home recipes online, traditional brain tanning methods and professionally tanned fur. This method follows step-by-step proven methods used by taxidermists around the world. The finished product is a soft, supple pelt that can be hung on the wall or used to make a coat, hat, comforter, etc. A decade ago, I used home-made recipes that sometimes called for turpentine.

The end results were always the same: I had to break the tanned fur over a rope or board or chair back to make it soft. This method takes some serious elbow grease to obtain soft fur.

Several years ago I came across a tanning kit made by TruBond Taxidermy. The finished product is always a soft, supple pelt that is a true trophy. A cased pelt has an enhanced natural look and preserves the entire pelt — with face and nose completely intact.

The finished product resembles the living critter. Instead of splitting the fur down the belly section, you start at the two hind feet and cut through the skin all the way around each ankle. Then you run your knife down the inside of the hind leg, where the bottom and side furs converge. You can see the physical differences in the fur at this intersection.

Run down to and around the anus and up the other side to the opposite ankle. Then you simply work the pelt off the carcass all the way to the tip of the nose.

Bonus Tip: take your time working the pelt off. Pull down what you can and use a sharp knife to cut away the carcass from the pelt. Take extra time around the head, especially the ear, eyes and nose. Tanning is a method of preserving animal skin. If done properly, the skin is turned into leather with the fur firmly attached to the skin.

A professionally tanned pelt will last decades if cared for properly. As soon as the animal is dispatched, a stopwatch begins. When an animal dies, bacteria in its gut and on its body begin to rapidly multiply and breakdown the tissues. This is the natural decomposition process. Your job is to freeze time shortly after the animal is harvested. One of the first signs of a bacterial explosion, a. This can happen in an isolated location or across the entire pelt.

The hair literally slips out of the skin. If I notice this at any stage prior to tanning, I pitch the pelt in the trash.

A pickle bath is no more than a clean, 5-gallon bucket half filled with tap water, citric acid, pickling salt and a fur-safe degreaser. Your pelt will stay submerged in this solution right up until the day of tanning.

A pickle is an extremely acidic environment with a pH of 1. I use a stick or plastic spoon to stir the pelt around each day. It will corrode in the pickle. Also, keep the pickle bath in a warmer environment. Some taxidermist place a fish-tank heater in the pickle to keep the temp around 80 degrees. This allows the pickle and degreaser to break down fats and proteins faster.

After the pelt soaks for a day or two, pull it out and wring out the pickle water as thoroughly as you can. Then place the pelt skin-side up on a fleshing beam and begin fleshing from the face down to the tail. I highly recommend getting a fleshing knife for this task. A fleshing knife pushes off any connective tissue, meat, fat and grease from the skin-side of the pelt.

Then drop the pelt back in your pickle solution for another couple of days. If your pickle bath is really dirty because of blood or dirt on the pelt, simple dump it out and mix a new one up. After a couple-day soak in the pickle, pull the pelt out and wring it out again. Place it back on your fleshing beam and give it a final scrape. Once completed, place the pelt back in pickle bath for another day or two.

Fleshing takes practice and time, so be sure to do a quality job over a fast job. You want to remove all meat and connective tissue from the skin. You simply mix a couple gallons of water with baking soda and pickling salt. After pulling your pelt from the pickle, you wash it off in fresh water and then submerge it in the neutralizing bucket. The pelt will sit in here for an hour. Once the pelt sits for an hour, wring it out good and hang it to dry.

You can run a fan on it at this point, too. Once the pelt is no longer dripping wet, but tacky and pliable, you can apply the tanning product. If the pelt has dried stiff in places, be sure to wipe the areas with water to moisten it back up. I simply shake the bottle well before opening, pour some in a plastic Solo cup and liberally rub the oil over the entire skin-side of the pelt.

Be sure to get it on the skin-side of the ears, face, entire length of tail and all areas with skin. Try to avoid getting it on the hair side.

I hang mine in the basement or garage, just avoid placing it in an area where freezing could occur. Let the pelt hang overnight or for 24 hours depending how fast it begins to dry. This helps break up the leather fibers and will result in a softer skin. At this point start pulling sections of the pelt to the sides, up and down and every which a way. The more you stretch the skin over the next couple of days, the softer it will become.

Bonus Tip: Raccoons and coyotes are notorious for having thick neck skins. Once the pelt is completely dry, find a great spot on the wall to showcase it. To accomplish this, I use a wire-wheel attachment on my cordless drill and run it up-and-down and side-to-side over the leather area of the neck. This can take several minutes to get the skin down to the desired thickness. This can cause heat to build in the pelt, possibly causing damage.

The method described above is specific to the TruBond tanning products and procedures. By Mark Olis January 31, Categories Predator. Newsletter Sign Up Join 44, outdoor enthusiasts who already get great content delivered right to their inbox. Popular Stories. May 22, Create Mineral Licks on the Cheap. March 15, Top 7mm Hunting Cartridges of all Time. Comments on this site are submitted by users and are not endorsed by nor do they reflect the views or opinions of COLE Publishing, Inc. Comments are moderated before being posted.

Tanning racoon degreasing

Tanning racoon degreasing